Installation Tips
How to install the wood right the first time.
As recommended by the National Wood Flooring Association
A sound subfloor is the most important item for a sturdy foundation. Nearly all squeaks and cracks can be traced back to a poor subfloor. When installing a plywood subfloor, you must use a ¾” exterior grade, if your finished flooring is ¾”. If your wood flooring is going to be installed over concrete, you need to perform a wetness test first. This can be done easily by taping down a 3' by 3' section of plastic and leaving it there for 72 hours. Once dry you can proceed.
Check the subfloor for high spots and sand them down to create a flat surface. You can put down a 30lb. felt paper between the subfloor and the wood planks to help further reduce squeaks. This also helps to increase circulation around the floor boards.
Heart Pine is a natural wood product, which will take on or release water depending on the humidity in the air. Humidity levels vary with air conditioning and heating and your wood floors will shrink or expand. Relative humidity should be stabilized at 40-60%. Humidifiers and de-humidifiers can help with this.
Acclimation time is important. Air temperature and humidity should be stable before the floor arrives. While the wood is acclimating, it should be stacked so that air can circulate around each board. You can use a moisture meter to check the floor and subfloor prior to installation. If there is more than a 2% discrepancy, this is a sign that the wood is not fully acclimated.
Check the moisture content with a good moisture meter. The floor should measure 8-14% with the subfloor being no more than a 2% difference. However the moisture content should match the relative humidity in the house. If it is outside the range you may need to consider the humidifier or de-humidifier.
Because every tree is unique, every floor will be unique.
- Tom Green III
Site preparation
All concrete should be cured at least 60 days before delivery of flooring materials. Always do the moisture test regardless of how long it has been poured.
Plan the Layout
Consider the special touches that you may want to include, like framing doorways, fireplaces, or changing the grain pattern from one room to the next. Take the time to plan the layout so the last boards laid don't have to do all the accommodating for a room that is not square.
Board Selection
Select straight boards for the firs few rows and the last few rows. Be sure to stagger the varying lengths all over the room. Being careful not to save the short pieces for the end of the run.
Laying the Floor
It is best to lay the wood perpendicular to the joists but not required. If you lay it parallel you will need a strong subfloor to prevent squeaks and cracks. Stagger the flooring so the end joints are not all at the same place. 6"-8" is a good rule of thumb. Often heart pine boards are 6-10' in length and don't have to be end matched. Just remember to mix in the shorter pieces. Some professionals suggest beginning in the middle of the room. Flooring expands from the tongue out, so changes in humidity will move from the center of the room out.
Use a center spline between the two facing grooves on the center boards. Other folks suggest installing from wall to wall depending on weather you left or right handed. All agree a power nailer is much faster and it greatly reduces the chance of having a hammer mark on your new wood floors.
The floor must be allowed to move so leave a small gap that base and shoe molding can cover up. And if its new construction, undercut the door jams slightly so that the wood flooring can easily slide under them.
